We have a Bluetooth adapter for our car audio and it’s great. Plugs into the aux jack and car power. Really handy not needing to plug in.

Yeah, I did ak3 month first, then 6 month, then 12 month. If you do a family plan, I think you can also get the cheaper price with a shorter lock-in.

I get cheaper on Mint because I get the 6 or 12 month price, but it means you have to have the money up front to pay for it.

It’s all with respect to humans. Humans aren’t making the bird nests, so they’re natural, not man-made. Our houses don’t over naturally, we build them.

From the bird’s perspective, sure, nests might be bird-made and humans are part of nature. But at humans, we’ve also done a ton to shape the world and separate ourselves from nature. If your house were a fire-heated lean-to in the woods, there might be less a distinction between it and “out in nature,” but if you’re living in a city or town, your immediate surroundings probably have been heavily constructed and modified by humans.

It looks like corroded metal, maybe?

… Paint?

Well, they didn’t put carpet on the bathroom floor. But they’ve arguably found something far worse.

--force-with-lease

See, It’s all safe now!

(/s, but I did royally screw up my own feature branch with a janked rebase off the main branch before though.)

Probably not surprising tht Oppenheimer is furthest ahead in New Mexico. But why is Mississippi so into Barbie?

I also discovered this. I was panicking a little bit when I started smelling what seemed like sewage in my basement. In a 100 year old house, I was wondering what broke. After a few hours, I figured out that there were potatoes rotting in the pantry, which was more open to the basement than it was to the main floor of the house - so all the smell sank down there. It was honestly a relief.

The further you go, the more specialized it gets. There are people I know doing their PhDs in CS, but it was pretty much just straight math. I’m now an expert in a very specific area of robotics. But it’s only worth it if you have a specific reason to go to grad school, like for a particular career path. If it’s just because you like learning, it’s not worth it. There’s a big opportunity cost.

My older sibling did something similar - getting Ubuntu installed on my very first laptop (a 9" netbook) back in 2008 and replacing windows XP. But be warned: it is a slippery slope. At the time , I just wanted a computer that I could take class notes on (high school), and never wanted to touch programming or the terminal. Now I have a PhD in computer science. I still don’t use Arch though.

And for me, as one of the few women in my CS program: plenty of opportunities, and plenty of douchebags.

These ads are getting so much more prevalent, and so much more subtly marked. Google (and places like reddit and Facebook) designs them to feel as much like organic content as possible. I have a pihole on my home network, in part to prevent exactly the type of mistake you described.

Oh boy, I keep a page just for this!.

I need to update it (for example, Arachne perimeters in PrusaSlicer now let you print extra thin perimeters), but it’s useful to have a reference for common tolerances/dimensions like screw holes.

But a couple of my little additional pet peeves:

• Don’t put fillets on the underside of prints (against the bed). The nearly-flat angle always droops and looks bad. Use a chamfer instead, or make a fillet that actually starts at 30° from horizontal.
• The weakest direction is between layers. Design your part such that you can print it in an orientation where the thin/weak parts aren’t printed where the layer lines can snap (eg, print it flat vs vertical)
• Just like the straight lines inside screw head holes, thinking ahead in your design can prevent/minimize the need for support material. The earlier you start thinking about this in you design, the easier it will be. For example, can a part be designed with a 30° slope on an underside instead of being flat? Can you think about your print orientation early in the design process to avoid overhangs?
• Chamfer of fillet inside corners, if it’s a structural part. This will greatly reduce stress concentrations.

Personally, I don’t use 3 perimeters on most of my prints. On my prusa, they look totally fine with 2 perimeters. I only switch to 3 if I need the strength (which also almost always means I’m printing in PETG, rather than PLA, FWIW).

It is possible to get transition care while on Medicaid in some states, at least. Because it’s healthcare! So that would qualify at “taxpayer funded.” I know some states explicitly ban it, and not sure what Medicare covers. There are also government employees who can get transition care through their insurance, so could be considered taxpayer funded?

In any case, I’d much rather have all trans people be able to get taxpayer funded transition related care.

Ha, realizing the oddity of my phrasing in hindsight. My guess was OP had some smidge of a memory hearing that insulating over wire was bad, so thought it would be worth a little context.

(In tithe US) It’s not safe or up to code to cover knob and tube wiring with insulation because that can cause it to overheat and start fires. But this is modern Romex wiring, not 100+ year old wiring. Many wires in your house are running through insulation - like everything in an exterior wall. They’re designed for this.

I’m also team onshape. I have a powerful desktop, but I still end up doing CAD from the couch on my 6-year-old Chromebook, so onshape is a champ for that. It’s also nice for collaborating, which I do when working on bigger projects with my fiancee.

I got started with it entirely from the tutorials provided by Onshape itself. The learning curve was a lot less steep than I expected.

I’m almost done building a from-scratch keyboard with a pair of nice!nanos. So far is been a pretty good experience. I ran into some issues setting up my firmware for a brand new keyboard layout (which shouldn’t be an issue if you’re just making a config for an existing keyboard), and the ZMK/nice!nano discords were very helpful and got me up and running.

When wiring the battery, I’d say get the biggest single cell lipo that will fit in your case. But even a 100mAh battery will get you pretty far off you don’t have LEDs. You just connect the B+ and B- pins on the board to your battery. If you want to make the battery last longer, stick a switch inline with the battery to be able to completely turn it off (rather than it just going into deep sleep).