Well that’s one way to plug your memory leaks

Hah I totally whispered that line in the theater when it came out! The Matrix had come out recently so you just couldn’t unsee it.

I second the suggestion of befriending the dog: get some good dog treats and essentially train it. Imagine the look on the neighbor’s face if everyone is outside and the dog obeys your verbal commands. Delicious!

I already have a pair of shoes that are permanently imbued with this fragrance 😂

Does that top surface feel ridged? To me this looks more like an issue with either overextrusion or z offset too low than temperature.

The way that the heaters turn on and off is by using a gcode command. So my first thought is that somehow the new slicing profile is not spitting out those commands. Try comparing the generated gcode from slicing the same model in both versions and see what’s different. The temperature commands have to be at the start so should be easy to find. The gcode commands themselves are very googleable.

Sweet! I need one of those too. Do these use vacuum or blow air?

I did something similar. I would get about as far as writing the interesting mechanic/game logic and then give up.

Another vote for prusa here. The recently added organic supports are really awesome. It’s enabled me to print some things I previously would not have attempted.

You guys have projects that end??

Before you go the octoprint or other hosted app route, I humbly suggest printing from the SD card while you learn the process engineering to get prints to come out decent. This reduces the number of things you have to learn at once, and the points of failure. The workflow is then simply: (1) acquire or design the model (STL file). (2) slice it (generate .gcode file) and copy to sd card. (3) use the touchscreen to run the gcode file.

You’ll spend most of your fiddling on step 2 since you need to learn what temperatures and speeds work well.

Yeah seriously. The day news of this broke, I switched my book library over to Calibre+DeDRM and put my device in airplane mode.

In my experience the hole that the thermistor goes into isn’t in the path of the filament. So probably what’s happening is either the nozzle or the tube that screws into the other side of the heater block is loose, allowing melted plastic to escape through a place other than the tip of the nozzle.

After you’ve cleaned it out, what I like to do before running filament through again is to turn the hot end on, let it come up to temp, then tighten the nozzle a bit more. The joint expands when heated so even if you’ve got it right at room temp it can still need tightening at the working temperature.

That size puts you in the “quite large” category, hah. One example that I know of (because I own one) is the Ender 5 Plus which comes in at 35x35x40cm build volume.

I’m a fan of the aftermarket parts offered by micro swiss (store.micro-swiss.com) so I check there before taking a printer seriously. Hope that helps!

Yes, the circuit in an rfid device gets its power by harvesting energy from the RF source it’s being illuminated with. A smaller version of wireless power transmission first invented by Tesla (the person, not the car company). Similar principles were used in the Cold War for surreptitious listening devices. Neat tech.

My advice is to buy based on the availability of replacement parts. A red flag to me is a brand where there are no third party nozzles or hot end components. Because inevitably something is going to go wrong and you’re gonna have to fix something. Some printers make it really hard to get at the hot end components which will make it really intimidating to troubleshoot for the first time.

Besides the need for clean air to deal with the solvent, does an active printer smell the way say ABS does?

Does the temperature stability requirement mean it is difficult to print larger items that may take overnight?

What are some causes of bad curing you’ve experienced?